1. The first step is to remove the bushings currently in your OEM upper control arms. On this set of upper arms I had the OEM bushings still installed, but this works for others as well. I did not bother using a press for these but instead just used a regular bench vise. The left cup has to clear the bushing and be deep enough to let it fully extract. On the right side I just used a socket that had the same outer diameter as the OEM outer sleeve. It did not take much force for me to press them out and I did not provide any additional heat or lubrication for this step.

2. Shown below is my OEM arm with all four bushings removed. They were still in decent shape but starting to come apart. During this step clean the arms as much as possible. I took a scotch-bright pad and cleaned the inner diameter of my arms and made sure all of the surface rust was off.

I will state it here, but make sure to use A LOT of grease everywhere. OEM Honda grease works great, but I used high-temp Mobil-1 grease as I had it handy. Lube the inside, outside, left and right of EVERYTHING. Do not be shy with how much grease you use!

3. I didn’t manage to take any pictures during install, but this is how the bushings should be installed. I used the same desk vice and installed the offset bushings. I did it in this order, but others may work better for you: First I did the thick bushing on the outside of the arm into the control arm. Then I did the stainless inner sleeve into the thick bushing. Finally I did the thin bushing into the control arm and into the sleeve. I did it this way because it allowed me to use the inner sleeve to position the thin bushing. I was worried if I did the sleeve last that I would have slight misalignment. If another method works better feel free to reach out to me or post in the comments!

A few notes before you commit to this step. Make sure to install the offset bushings in the correct orientation. If you accidentally install them rotated 180 degrees you will actually add camber! The sleeve needs to be closer to the upper ball joint. Also install the bushings so that the hole is parallel to the control arm so that you only affect camber during this install.

Use lube during each step. I lubed the inside and outside of everything.

Also use a large flat object when pressing in the bushings so that you don’t score them. For example a piece of plywood or a piece of sheet metal. You want as even pressure on the bushing as possible.

It is very hard to pull the bushings back out without damaging them so have a good plan on install before you begin!

4. Before install, the last thing I did is add set screws. I chose to use one on each corner of the control arms. They are M6x1.0MM set screws. I drilled a pilot hole of 5mm, then used a M6x1.0 tap. The material is pretty soft so drilling and tapping went fairly quickly.

I Loctite blue everything before install.

5. Finally they can be installed onto the car. It might be hard to see on the pictures above, but a fender washer needs to be installed on the inside and outside face of the control arm. The reason for this is to prevent stiction of the bushing, which is sometimes a problem with Delrin. Adding more lube here does not hurt to prevent any squeaks.

I torqued the control arm to chassis bolts to 80ft/lbs, like OEM. For the ball joint it was 40ft/lb, and then a little turn to line up the cotter pin. Make sure to clock your bushings before torquing down!

I articulated to full bump and droop to make sure stiction was not an issue before I put the wheel back on.

Thats it! Go get an alignment and send it!

Youtube Install Video: